3 Tricks You Can do to Ensure Your Drought-Tolerant Plants Thrive

Many homeowners & landscapers across the state of California have struggled to make their yard look and feel good with less lawn. Replacing dead and under-utilized lawn spaces is critical for the well-being of California. We need no reminder of frequent water shortages or habitat depletion. But, if not done properly, installing new lawn alternatives can deliver results that are both discouraging - full of gaps and ugly - OR worse, more depleting for the environment then watering the old boring green stuff actually was (recent studies in both Utah and UC Riverside have shown that bare, sunbaked soil depletes more water from the environment than carefully irrigated lawn).  

So, if you're looking to make the jump to a beautiful new drought-tolerant yard, but have some concerns about how it's going to turn out, here's some great tips on how to make sure you're new plants will thrive for the long-haul:

1. Amend Soil Drainage

Drought-tolerant plants are picky about the dirt they grow in (otherwise they'd be covering your yard already right?). Compacted or clay composite soils without air space are a recipe for disaster for a new drought-tolerant garden. IF your soil is sandy or naturally very fast-draining than good news! You can completely ignore this step. Just remember to lightly dress your dirt's surface with compost and mulch as sand leaches nutrients faster than any other soil type and needs help regaining its topsoil composition. 

3 Options for Improving Soil Drainage 

• AMEND PLANTING HOLES: This is the fastest easiest fix for most homeowners. Place 2-3" of drainage gravel into the bottom of your planting holes. As well as a few channels of it at vertical sides. This allows water (and air!) to deeply penetrate. Inspired by Ruth Bancroft's incredible dry farming methods. 
• AMEND SOIL OVERALL: If you're planting a large area, improve the soil by adding 2–3 inches of fast-draining planting soil (or a mix of sand or decomposed granite with compost or mulch) and tilling it into the top 6 inches of your dirt. This method is common for drought-tolerant or native lawns (more info). Avoid removing topsoil; remove subsurface soil if necessary. 
• SHAPE YOUR LANDSCAPE SO THAT IT DRAINS NATURALLY (contouring): This is the most labor-intensive but most effective long-term fix for your yard. Reshaping the surface—like mounded beds with chunky rocks or drainage media underneath—improves soil drainage and rainwater capture. These gently sloped garden beds support low-water plants, while flat, mulched pathways absorb runoff. Chances are you've seen landscape shaping like this done before at new local native garden installs in your neighborhood. 

2. Water at Outer Root Zone

What's a sure-fire way to rot your sensitive native or drought-tolerant plants? Place a dripper directly on their stalk. While coiling dripper heads around plant trunks is a good practice for conventional food crops or thirsty boxwoods, doing so with native and drought-tolerant plants will quickly sicken them. Move drip emitters at least several inches away from the stalk base of low-water plants. Increase that distance to 6-12" after 6 months (or further for more irrigation sensitive native plants i.e. ceanothus, white sage, penstemon and more). 

3. Plant in Moderate Weather

Plant in gentle seasons or when overcast wherever possible. If it's a heat wave or peak summer, stagger planting as much as possible to the early morning or dusk hours. When the sun's greatest intensity has passed. 

Tools You'll Need to Install your Garden

Here's a quick check list of the things you'll need to build or install a drought-tolerant garden. 

1. Bucket - for soaking plants in water before planting
2. Shovel - for digging holes. Pick axes are often the better tool for starting them
3. Gloves - for protecting your hands
4. Hose - for deeply soaking new plantings
5. Gravel - for improving soil drainage. misc. rock ok!
6. Compost - for sprinkling on surface soil to feed plants in early days
7. Mulch - for locking in moisture
8. Optional: Amendments like mycorrhizae inoculants, crab meal, chelated iron (for Australian plants), or specialty fertilizers (i.e. for acid-loving plants)

Don't forget sun protection and lots of hydrating beverages to keep you going! Getting your hands dirty is a great way to fall in love with your yard. Just remember to keep an eye out for irritating plants or pollutants. And listen to your body when you need a break. 

Layout Tips for Planting

Arranging your plants is an important - though time-consuming step for your garden. Taking your time to layout a yard properly can save loads of wasted effort and materials in the long run. Deliberation can be painstaking but well worth the results! 

TAKE YOUR TIME: arranging is the most important part of planting. Getting things adequately spaced and in the best (and easiest to dig!) spots will determine the long-term health & beauty of the garden. It can take a few hours. But thereʼs no need to be strict, have fun and play around!

BIGGEST FIRST: Place your biggest growing plants first. Space them at least 3-5ʼ apart or up to 10-25ʼ for trees. Foreground plants can be as close as 1-3ʼ. Even 6” for small-growing accents.

GROUP IN ODDS: Cluster groupings of the same species at random in odd numbers (ideally in uneven triangles) for the most natural look.

If you like it tight and tidy however, for a formal more structured look place plants of the same species in straight parallel rows or group in squares in even numbers. This looks especially great around centered tree planters.  

Quick Reminder: placing your tallest-growing plants to the North or East wherever possible allows smaller or slower growing plants in foreground areas to get their fair share of sun.