Native sod and lawn alternative ground cover operate differently from conventional lawn because well, they're very different plants! Pouring water or fertilizer on them at the wrong times can do more harm than good. But likewise under-watering can cause major long-term problems. Every species function a bit different. But here's some of the most common questions customers have...and a hilarious rodent issue story or two too!
General Sod FAQ
Do I need Conventional Sprinkler Irrigation for Native Sod?
Short Answer: It's different for different people and different climate zones.
Long Answer: Yes. To be safe, having automated conventional sprinkler systems is the easiest way to establish and maintain native lawn and ground cover.
All sods need HEAVY and thorough irrigation to be able to form and penetrate their roots deep enough to establish. In general for warm inland climates this means: 3-4 times a day for 10 min the first 2 weeks, than you can cut back to 2-3 times a day for the second 2 weeks. After that it all depends on the weather, microclimate and soil type.
- Spreading ground covers, in general, are more adaptable to drip and subsurface irrigation than native grasses.
- Native Bentgrass / Thingrass (Agrostis pallens), likes to go to bed dry. So stagger irrigation as much as possible toward predawn and morning hours.
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Native Fescue / Fine Fescue (Festuca blends), likes to go to bed soaked. So stagger irrigation into afternoons, evenings and overnight as much as possible.
Areas more amenable to alternative irrigation setups: If you are installing in Northern California or coastal climes OR in areas shaded from hot afternoon sun, there is more playroom for exploring alternative irrigation options. In general, we haven't seen great results with native grass sods and in-ground irrigation. If in-ground is your preferred Fescue will handle it better thanBentgrass.
Why is Native Sod SO Expensive?
There's various reasons for various plants. In general native sod propagation and seed collection is just more labor intensive than conventional lawn (which has been bred for ease of reproduction in closed trials for decades).
- Bentgrass seed is expensive because 90% of it is still hand collected from wild stands in California. If you need more seed to fill in, Larner Seeds is the best source for ordering: Larner's Bentgrass seed
- Frogfruit is still being bred as a proprietary plant in many instances. Some of its patented sterile strains are owned by overseas venture capitalists. In addition seeds from this plant have a very low germination rate so hand propagation is still the most commonly used method. It typically needs warm seasons to propagate. Checkout this L.A. Times article if your curious about more of the history of this plant.
When's the Best Time to Plant Native Grass & Groundcover Lawns?
Almost all Native grasses are best planted in cool seasons (except *California Buffalo grass which is a warm season grass). San Diego Bentgrass (Agrostis pallens), California Fescue blends (Festuca californica) and Meadow and Duge Sedges, (Carex pansa and prae.) are all cool season grasses. California Buffalo grass requires being planted in a warm season.
Frogfruit ground cover on the other hand (phyla nodiflora, lippia repens, etc.) is a warm season ground cover which means it doesn't spread much in cool seasons.
All of these plants (except buffalo grass) can be planted any time of year, but extra care, patience or water may be required if planting in the lesser preferred season. Especially if temperatures soar for a cool season grower. Installing Bentgrass in July or August is not recommended in hot inland climates unless the location is shaded from hot afternoon sun. Though you can always use shade cloth if necessary.
Native Sod Trouble Shooting
I've Got a Clover Infestation, What Herbicides are safe for Native Lawn?...
Clover is a sign that your soil is nitrogen deficient. This means it's time to apply soil improving amendments (compost) or the clover will just keep coming back.
I've got an existing Bentgrass Lawn and it's Patchy...
Bentgrass can be a bit fussy if soil conditions aren't just right. It's likely patchy because water is either A. not spreading evenly or B. not penetrating evenly. If the soil is very compacted and not draining readily, then bentgrass will suffer.
My recommend is to aerate the patchy spots by stabbing them with a screwdriver, pitchfork or aeration tine and then sprinkling a mix of good bio-active compost and sand or DG over the patchy spots up to 1" thick. You can also get fast draining planting mix for this same application.
Also of course, check your sprinkler coverage to make sure water is being spread evenly and reaching those bare spots! (or alternatively not pooling there and stagnating in sun which will cause heat rot). Inconsistent sprinkler coverage is the Number 1 water waster and reason for lawn failure in California landscaping.
I've got an existing Frogfruit Lawn and there's Grasses in it, what herbicides to you recommend?
Frogfruit is thankfully compatible with a few good grass removal products. Hand pulling, of course, is the best option if you catch issues early, but if it's pervasive here's some things that can help:
- Crab Grass: use something with Sethoydium like “Grass Getter”
- Annual Bluegrass: use something with Fluazifop like "Fusilade II"
- Nutsedge: use a product with Halosulfuron-methyle like “Sedgehammer”
APPLICATION RATES: Spot treating is always better than broad-scale application. Contact us for broad-scale application rates if required. Also please get in touch for pre-emergent herbicide recommendations where required. Indaziflam containing products are generally recommended the safest for pre-emergent Phyla nodiflora herbicide treatment.
Gophers...
Q: Gophers in my yard and area are somewhat prolific... if we lay down chicken wire will the sod survive?
The problem with Frogfruit and gophers is that phyla’s actually an edible plant…meaning the gophers can often quite enjoy its foliage (same goes for bunnies). However sod is much more resilient to this than plugs are. But still if gophers are extremely pervasive (gopher barrier at fence line, trapping or camphor soaked cotton balls in the holes aren’t working) you might want to look at other options. Grasses tend to have more resilience to gophers.
Raccoons...
Q: Do you have any recommendations on preventing animals (probably raccoons, but I'm not 100% sure), from rolling up the sod to dig for grubs?
Oh my gosh those Raccoons are silly! What rascals.
- Fill a stock pot or crock pot with water & bring to a boil
- Turn down the temp and add
- some old garlic or onions,
- citrus peels
- any strong herbs you have around the yard (mint, rosemary, bay)
- Take it off the heat and pour some mint, tea tree or lemongrass essential oils.
- Add a banana peal for a liquid fertilizer treat!
- Spread it around the edges of the sod with a turkey baster or sprayer
